Embroidery



J. KOBELT. EMBlwIm-llw.

(No Model.)

Patented Dec. 11,1894.

` W/TNESSES.- 95.4/

By f @mim- 235 ATTORNEY.

rm: Nonms PETERS oo., pHoro-Umb.. WASHINGTON. o. c.

UNITED4 STATES PATENTv OFFICE.

` JACOB KOBELT, on HoBoKnN, Naw JERsEY.

EMBROIDERY'.

SPECIFICATION `forming part of Letters Patent No.` 530,595, dated December '11, 1894. Application tiled October 20, 1893. Serial No. 488,697. (No model.)

To @ZZ whom it may concern:

Be it known that l, JACOB KOBELT, residing" at Hoboken, in the county of Hudson and State of New Jersey, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Embroidering, of which the following is a specification. i

Heretofore, in producing relief work in em- .broideries, it has been customary to form av .nothing of the manifest injury to the fabric by the great quantity of thread penetrations.

My invention has, therefore, primarily for its object to produce, a raised embroidered surface, which will stand out from the fabric, in the form of a hollow ridge orwelt.

It has also for its object to provide an embroidery having a relief portion in the nature of a hollow ridge or welt, produced therein, without the aid of a distinct basis of cord or a filling of underlay stitches.

These objects I attain in the mannerhere inafter described and claimed, in which, by the use of a single thread carried in successive and peculiar steps,tofo"rm bot-hthe em-` broidery and the drawn or back stitches, the hollow portion is produced, and such portion of the fabric held Vfrom resuming its norma-l pondition during its ordinary wear or hand- Referring to the accompanying drawings: Figure l is a face view of a piece of fabric produced in accordance with my invention. Fig. 2 is a detail sectional View, greatly enlarged, showing the fabric with an embroidery stitch on the face thereof, before forming the ridge or welt. Fig. 3 is a similar view on the line 35-3 Fig. l, showing the fabric embroidered and drawn together, showing clearly the hollow welt or ridge. Fig. 4, is aV diagrammatic viewfof a completed section,

greatly enlarged, showing the course or steps. Referring to the accompanyingl drawings by letters and numeralsA indicates the fabric, having as shown in Fig. l, two raised or welt shaped lines or bars B. B produced in `accordance with my invention;

c, designates the surfacel or embroidery stitch and CZ 4theback stitch which draws the fabric together.

I am aware that embroidery figures have heretofore been produced by drawing the back or under thread to cause the fabric to gatherbetween the ends of the stitch, and` the case, where a supplemental orbasis portionis provided therefor. p

` One of the essential features of my invention, is to produce a stitch, `in which supplemental.` embroidery `portions are provided, which serve as outer reinforce portions,eand skirt the main or ridge portion, and eiifectually prevent the same from being pulled laterally or iiattened out when the `fabric is Apulled transversely to the direction of the embroidery figure. p

p The embroidered gure on the face of the fabric andthe back stitching is produced in the mannermost clearly shown in Fig. et and the'steps taken" to produce such figure are best explained as follows: Assuming the lines X-X on Fig. 4, to indicate the outer edges of the mainor'ridge portion of theigure and the lines Y.--Y the outer edge of the skirting or angle portion of such embroidery figure.

`The thread is securedin the fabric at l on the line X, and is then passed diagonally forward over the fabric to theopposite line X to a. point marked 2 making, as it were, a central or ridge embroidery stitch.` The threadis then passed diagonally forward and transversely under the fabric from2 to 3 on the line X, and

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up through the fabric; it being at the same time drawn, to cause the fabric to gather or bulge outward between the lines X-X. The thread is then passed diagonally rearward,

` transversely over the face of the fabric to a point 4 on the line X', making another embroidery stitch, from whence it passes under the fabric to the point 5 onthe line X, Fig. 4 and again drawn. passed diagonally forward (but in the same direction as before) on the face of the fabric t0 a point marked 6 on line Y, Fig.4 forming a supplemental embroidery stitch, which skirts one edge of the hollow or ridge figure. From this point the thread passes under the fabric as a back st-itch to a point 7 (practically poiut 4) and is drawn'to crowd the weft inward. It then makes a skirt stitch from 7 to 8, then a back or drawn stitch 8 to 9, from whence it passes as a skirt stitch from 9 to 10 (practically 6) forming in connection with stitch 5 to 6, an angle figure, the strands of which not only draw the weft together but also pull outward against the warp threads, and form thereby a firm stitch which will practically reinforce the central or ridge portion and thereby prevent the same being drawn when the fabric is stretched transversely. After the thread is passed through point 10,it extends as a back stitch to point 11 (practically 2) from whence it passes to 12 and'completes an angle portion at the oppo- It'then l passes back to point 5 as a back stitch, is.

site side of the central ridge portion.

drawn, and then passes parallel to stitch 1-2, to a point 13, on line X Fig. 4 which operation `completes the first section of the embroidery figure, the same operation being repeate'd until the required amount of embroid- A ery has been produced.

It will be seen from the foregoing that I wholly complete a single section before proceeding to form the next section, and in the formation of such first section not a single strandof thread is wasted. At the same time three important results are attained: first, the embroidery figure is formed; second, by

the peculiar method and manipulation of the It is obvious that the stitch shown and described, which now forms four regula-r figures and extending across the face in diagonal lines, may be so modified as to form five or At this point the thread is more figures without departing from the spirit of my invention.

It should be stated thatthe face or embroidery stitches are held on the face loose, i. e., in contradistinction to the back stitches, so that when the hollow ridge is formed, such face stitches will snugly and smoothly fit over such ridge.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

1. An improved article of embroidery consisting of a piece of fabric having a hollow ridge-like portion, and having figures of embroidery thereon; each figure being composed of central embroidery stitches held over the face of such ridge, and drawn leap stitches on the back held over the hollow of the ridge, and supplemental embroidery stitches skirting the edges of the central or ridge stitches, all substantially as shown, and for the purposes described.

2. An'improved article of embroidery consisting'of a piece of fabric having a-hollow ridge or gathered portion having figures of embroidery thereon, each figure being formed of a single thread and consisting of a loose central portion extended over the face of the ridge, drawn portions vextended over the back or hollow portion of such ridge, and supplemental angle-like portions skirting the edges of the central portion, `whereby to hold such central stitch portion and the ridge from being drawn out fiat, all substantially as shown and described.

3. An improved article lof embroidery consisting of apiece of fabric having a hollow ridge or gathered portion having figures of embroidery thereon, formed leach of la single thread and consisting of a loose central or face portion, a rear draw-n portion or back stitch, and short angle embroidery portions ski-rting the edges of the central portions; said angle portions having back stitches extended and `draw-n in opposite diagonal ydirections, whereby to reinforce and hold the central ridge from spreading laterally, all substantially as shown and described.

Signed at the city of New York, in the county `and State Iof New York, this 19th day vof October, 1893.

JACOB KOBELT,

Witnesses:

GUsTAvE DIETERICH, JOHN KEHLENBECK.

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